Geeetech

I had the same problems and replaced the original extruder with a BMG dual extruder (Clone). Since then the filament has been reliably transported thanks to the two press rollers and a 3: 1 reduction ratio. Because of the 3: 1 reduction you have to adjust the E-Steps for the extruder motor (Smartto ...

... even my A30 did not print in the middle (offset to the front and right), so I could not use the entire print bed.
Solution: print a symmetrical test object, centered with e.g. Cura, measure distances to the edges, and enter half the page difference for the slicer (such as Cura) under Settings ...

and it was: the heating bed!

after I installed a new PSU the message came again and again after a short time:
Error Nozzle-0-Temp, the printing job has stopped.
When I replaced the temperature sensor and the heating cartridge one after the other - no change.
Luckily, yesterday came a new ...

I have two 24V-A30 machines here, both with the same effect (extruder motor extremely hot):
first device:
Hardware version V2.1-null
Serialnr. 180714A3000131E
Firmware V1.38.61

the second device only shows me the firmware: V1.36.57

I have found a formula with which VREF can be determined, but I ...

On my 24V-A30, the extruder motor is so hot after a short time that the filament in the feeder becomes soft. The consequence of this is first significant under-extrusion and finally the filament jams when threaded into the PTFE tube.
Even if I let the motor run without having to transport filament ...

I would like to do the upgrade to 24V, but I can not find the required spare parts (except the PSU), neither under the name nor under the specified order number. Is there a complete upgrade kit?

that's right, R23 only has one leg left. Also R28 is broken. For the white material on the electrolytic capacitors, I first thought that one of the capacitors had burst, but it is probably an elastic adhesive. But during the desoldering, I noticed that there is a cold solder joint on a connecting ...

ok, here is a photo.
Now I will contact Geeetech for a replacement PSU. So I hope for goodwill, because the printer is only half a year old!

New development :
Now I have done a printer test without bed heating, the printer has worked perfectly for 8 hours, then there was a loud bang and all fuses turned off. The control on the PSU returned 0V at all outputs. I have seen that the PSU is actually designed for 41 A, a heating current of 17 ...

No, I do not need metal clips, heating bed and Superplate are firmly connected.
A test with a replacement PSU gave no other results and I can find no damage to the heating bed. As a precaution, I have desoldered the power indicator - LED + resistor to exclude a short circuit.
Conclusion: I will ...