Geeetech

I have the same problem too. I have tried auto tuning the PID settings, reuploading the firmware, checked the connections and swearing at it. None of the things made a difference.

At the moment I have to preheat the nozzle to 3 degrees above printing temperature, let it "stabilize" there, and then ...

I can't seem to find any specifications on the lead screws used on the a30. I have just bought one, and it has been a fight to get it running smoothly.

The lead screw are not straight, which gives me all kinds of trouble the first 100 mm of a print. I am really desperate to get some new ones on it ...

Hi,
Thanks for the advice. I have already checked all connections and they seems to be ok. My plan is to make a wuick and dirty fix by wirering the heatbed directly to the control board until Geeetechs supportteam gets back to me with a solution to the problem.

Regarding the voltage setting i think ...

Another picture that is a little better

Thank You so much for your fast reply.
I have already messured the resistance in the heatbed to 1.1 ohm but forgot to mention it in my first post. Sorry about that :oops:
I have taken a picture of the ribbon cable if the location of the burned wire can give you an idea of where exactly the problem ...

Hello,

I resently purchased a prusa i3 a pro. Now the 30 pin ribbon cable between the control box and printer has started showing signs of heat damages on the insulation.
As far as I can see the 30 pin cable is supplying power for the hotend and heatbed. Is that correct? If this is the case, is the ...

Hello,

I resently purchased a prusa i3 a pro. Now the 30 pin ribbon cable between the control box and printer has started showing signs of heat damages on the insulation.
As far as I can see the 30 pin cable is supplying power for the hotend and heatbed. Is that correct? If this is the case, is the ...