Geeetech

Hey Folks,

I have seen a few other threads on the hotend clogging up a lot on the other models, but nothing really for the M201 so I was hoping to get a dialogue going with some people who have had similar problems using this model.

Over the past 24 hours I have had to disassemble the hotend 3 times and clean it out thoroughly - every single part removed and cleaned with either needle or tiny drill piece (very carefully) I have also noticed a modeate amount of leakage comimg from the 2 grub screws on either side of the hotend. I have removed them, cleaned both screw and hole and re-inserted them very tightly, but still getting some leakage.

Can anyone share their experiences with the clogging and how they overcame the problem? I think my distance between nozzle and bed may be off so I will continue to experiment there.

Cheers

Hi


I can share with you my observations on this issue.

In my case the clogging happened only once, and then never again.
This was when I started my adventure with 3D printing and the Geeetech brand.

I was a very green cactus then of course in this area.

The clogging happened when I used two filaments at once. I got to know the function of mixcolor at that time.
The first filament was a sample delivered with the DIY kit. It is described as ABS.
The second part of the filament (ABS) was bought separately by me.

During printing it turned out that the filament from the sample burnt down. There were various strange things that I hadn't noticed before.
Then I started to guess that maybe the temperature was too high for this material.
Further experience has shown that it must be a PLA.
So perhaps someone made a mistake when describing the sample bag. It is possible that he also carried the error he had made earlier.

Leaks also accompanied my head at work.
Then I warmed up the hot end and removed all possible elements.
The head was parked in a container with acetone.
Also all screws and nozzles that had been removed landed in it.
Cleaning consisted in rubbing with a cotton swab soaked in acetone.

After the initial screwing in of the screws and nozzle I warmed up the hot end. When all the components were hot, I screwed them tight.

I also tightened them after several hours of operation of the printer.
Since then, nothing has leaked out.

I use only one type of material, and I do not meet with clogging of the head.
So I think the filament I have is good quality.

Recently, I have also been confronted with one worrying phenomenon about which I have written here.

It seems that it is the same filament as the one from the sample in the set.

Hi Kaktus,

So it would seem to me that the key for you was re-inserting the screws into the hotend while the metal was hot which actually makes a lot of sense because the hotter a metal substance is, the more it will expand. Then once the hotend cools down it will create a better seal

Can I ask why you exclusively use ABS over PLA? I have only purchased 1 roll of filament since I assembled my printer and I bought PLA primarily due to my limited research telling me that ABS emitted a stink when melted.....

Hi


Somewhere I read that it was a difficult material.
So this seemed to be a sensible solution at the beginning.
I like challenges.

Seriously, it's better for my applications.

• The models are stronger and have a higher thermal stability.

• They will not deform as easily at elevated ambient temperatures.

• ABS can easily be machined with ordinary tools.

• It is very easy to permanently join the elements using acetone.

etc.
Compare the features of these materials.

I will not confirm this characteristic of stench. This may be an exaggerated opinion.
Perhaps it depends on the quality of the filament.

I bought a Geeetech filament and I'm still alive so I'm not poisoned. I print only at home, since my family has not expelled me yet, it means that my printing does not disturb them.
Although sometimes you may feel a slight aroma in the air, close to the printer as it works.

It's as if you've lit a candle with aromatic oil.
This filament is very good. Although using only one material I should not push the opinion because I have no comparison.
So I'll say that's my opinion about Geeetech's ABS filament.

PLA is made from natural ingredients and, compared to ABS, does not release any odour during the remelting process.

In addition, it is to be biodegradable. So, what is this plastic

If it was a lot cheaper than ABS I would certainly like to try it out...

Nevertheless, I can confirm that ABS is a very difficult material, despite all its advantages. It has its caprices and requirements

I still don't know a 100% effective method to weld a printout to a work table.
Perhaps it is worth trying out other surfaces at last. So far I had been printing only on an aluminium plate. And I experimented with various adhesives.
The hairspray and the special DIMAFIX agent are good.

As far as ABS is concerned, of course.

It is said that PLA does not have such a high shrinkage during printing.

When printing with ABS filament it is very, very important to level the work table and distribute the first layer evenly. A good distance must be kept between the surface and the head.
These two things have a key impact on the adhesion of the whole model to the heated worktop.
Whatever your material type, it's good to print the first layer at a slower rate. This will ensure better adhesion.

The rest is just an add-on. I am thinking here of all these adhesive tapes, glues, stickers and so on.

Hi


Today I have spoken to my fellow Member Mat.
During our conversation I thought of additional observations.
In a way, it was also caused by today's statement of our forum girlfriend Gingko.

Of course, the issue is with audible clicking while the extruder is in operation.

Well, what is the reason for an extruder to click

Always one - the filament does not flow through the nozzle. That's why the extruder is not able to load the next portion of the filament and we hear a click, a click, a click ...

When can this awkward situation arise?

• when the distance between the head and the work table (heated bed) is too small,

• If the work table is not level enough, it comes down to the first point,

• when the extruder drive (stepper motor) is inadequately controlled (driver has a motor current control function),

• when the Z-axis mechanism has been built with too little care (there is too much movement resistance when the Z-axis mechanism is in operation).

• when one of the Z axis drive motors loses its steps (the mechanism does not move properly).

Almost all of the presented symptoms lead to narrowing of the gap between the nozzle head and the printed model, which is manifested by an increase in pressure of the pushed out filament.

There is another case that deviates from this rule.

It concerns the construction of the feeder mechanism in the extruder.
Inside, there is a spring which presses the gear. When the spring is too loose, it does not press the gear against the drive roller properly. Then the filament may not be transported as well as we would expect.