Geeetech i3 Pro B ( 2015 series) Build Completed
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:28 am
Hey all,
Here's yet another Geeetech i3 Pro B (2015 series) kit
Board is the 2560
- build completed 07/2016
I thought you all might like to see it as it is - before I add further mods to it.
And my first two PLA prints:
Both prints where printed pre calibration of any kind. They printed to specs which was real nice to see checking them with a micrometer.
Both are RC related items.
The XT-60 Cap on the left was my first print which I printed on a cold bed using Blue Tape all default settings in Repetier and Slic3r.
The Motor Dremel guide on the right was printed directly on the glass with a heated bed @ 65/60C with some minor changes to the settings.
I purchased my Geeetech i3 Pro B locally a week before the new (2016) i3 Pro B was announced so mine still has the printed carriers but needless to say I'm really happy over all with my Pro B.
A few tips for those building one that I can think of off the cuff are:
1) Make sure you use the supplied washers. Using them prevents the cap screw heads and nuts from cutting into the acrylic.
2) Don't overtighten the screws/nuts especially when it comes to the acrylic. If you hear a craaack! you overtightened the screw and cracked the acrylic. go a quarter turn past hand tight or there about,
3) Use blue lock tight on the thread ends only. Don't get it on the acrylic it'll mar it. Use it very sparingly but use it. It doesn't take much but it will spare you the grief of having to go around and retighten all the screws every month or so.
4) Make sure you get things square from the start. Starting with the base as it states to do so in the build instructions. If you do, it just makes it that much more accurate in the end.
5) Hand polish all your Stainless rods and use a fine wax as a final to seal them. Once together use a dry lube on everything that slides or rolls. Like the threaded rods, bearings and where the threaded rod inserts into the acrylic on the Z axis or you'll hear a squeaking noise as the Z motors turn.
6) Use a M4x20mm Cap Screw for the X axis bearings for the X axis belt tensioner. The build instructions call for a M4x25mm Cap screw. If you use the M4x25mm with the cap to the outside, nut on the inside, it will scratch the acrylic all the way up the Z axis. This has been pointed out by another on YouTube and though he suggests to simply turn it around which will work. My suggestion is to use the correct cap screw length of 20mm. An M4x 22mm should be fine as well if you can't find a 20mm.
7) Install the Z axis couplings correctly. Both the motor shaft and the Z axis threaded rod should only be inserted into the coupling approximately a 1/4 inch. Up to the first cut line in the coupling. Re-Seat them if you see a wobble in the Z, you may or may not have a bent threaded rod on the Z axis. If one is way out - you may have a bent threaded rod. This is not uncommon and Geeetech will replace them. But check your coupling first.
8) If you find you have a bent threaded rod - buy it locally and cut it yourself. Mine came with both my threaded rods bent slightly. One worse than the other. And yes, Geeetech will replace them, but in my opinion, the chances of getting another bent rod seemed pretty high to me after going through all the hands and shipping all across the lands before it got to me. For less than $10US you can pick up a 1 meter/3 foot 8mm SS threaded rod and cut it yourself to length as I did. Just be sure to get a straight one. They ship to the suppliers in bundles - pick one from the center of the bundle. That'll be the straightest usually. And you'll have enough to cut a spare rod.
9) After you're done building the acrylic model - especially the black acrylic. You'll notice it has finger prints all over it. Black acrylic shows finger prints like nobodies business. Don't use household cleaner on the acrylic it'll cause crazing of the acrylic over time. Personally I use a pump spray cleaner that is safe for plastic lenses.
Other than the apparent common issue of the X and Y axis not lining up to the 200x200 bed lines at 0. As stated I'm really happy with my 3D printer.
In building it I came up with several mods, design changes, corrections to issues (like the X/Y axis zero position) which I plan on implementing in the very near future.
As well as a couple upgrades - like the All metal carrier upgrade which comes stock on the new 2016 i3 Pro B.
Dang if I had only waited a week!! lol
For the moment however - at least for a week or two. I'm going to enjoy it as it is.
Learn about the software and firmware in that time while figuring out what to print next...
Thanx Geeetech! I'm really enjoying my 3D printer!
- chase -
Here's yet another Geeetech i3 Pro B (2015 series) kit
Board is the 2560
- build completed 07/2016
I thought you all might like to see it as it is - before I add further mods to it.
- Geeetech i3 Pro B (2015 edition) Build completed 07/2016
- Geeetech-i3-Pro-B.jpg (220.83 KiB) Viewed 9958 times
- First-two-Prints-in-PLA---i3-Pro-B.jpg (124.67 KiB) Viewed 9958 times
Both are RC related items.
The XT-60 Cap on the left was my first print which I printed on a cold bed using Blue Tape all default settings in Repetier and Slic3r.
The Motor Dremel guide on the right was printed directly on the glass with a heated bed @ 65/60C with some minor changes to the settings.
I purchased my Geeetech i3 Pro B locally a week before the new (2016) i3 Pro B was announced so mine still has the printed carriers but needless to say I'm really happy over all with my Pro B.
A few tips for those building one that I can think of off the cuff are:
1) Make sure you use the supplied washers. Using them prevents the cap screw heads and nuts from cutting into the acrylic.
2) Don't overtighten the screws/nuts especially when it comes to the acrylic. If you hear a craaack! you overtightened the screw and cracked the acrylic. go a quarter turn past hand tight or there about,
3) Use blue lock tight on the thread ends only. Don't get it on the acrylic it'll mar it. Use it very sparingly but use it. It doesn't take much but it will spare you the grief of having to go around and retighten all the screws every month or so.
4) Make sure you get things square from the start. Starting with the base as it states to do so in the build instructions. If you do, it just makes it that much more accurate in the end.
5) Hand polish all your Stainless rods and use a fine wax as a final to seal them. Once together use a dry lube on everything that slides or rolls. Like the threaded rods, bearings and where the threaded rod inserts into the acrylic on the Z axis or you'll hear a squeaking noise as the Z motors turn.
6) Use a M4x20mm Cap Screw for the X axis bearings for the X axis belt tensioner. The build instructions call for a M4x25mm Cap screw. If you use the M4x25mm with the cap to the outside, nut on the inside, it will scratch the acrylic all the way up the Z axis. This has been pointed out by another on YouTube and though he suggests to simply turn it around which will work. My suggestion is to use the correct cap screw length of 20mm. An M4x 22mm should be fine as well if you can't find a 20mm.
7) Install the Z axis couplings correctly. Both the motor shaft and the Z axis threaded rod should only be inserted into the coupling approximately a 1/4 inch. Up to the first cut line in the coupling. Re-Seat them if you see a wobble in the Z, you may or may not have a bent threaded rod on the Z axis. If one is way out - you may have a bent threaded rod. This is not uncommon and Geeetech will replace them. But check your coupling first.
8) If you find you have a bent threaded rod - buy it locally and cut it yourself. Mine came with both my threaded rods bent slightly. One worse than the other. And yes, Geeetech will replace them, but in my opinion, the chances of getting another bent rod seemed pretty high to me after going through all the hands and shipping all across the lands before it got to me. For less than $10US you can pick up a 1 meter/3 foot 8mm SS threaded rod and cut it yourself to length as I did. Just be sure to get a straight one. They ship to the suppliers in bundles - pick one from the center of the bundle. That'll be the straightest usually. And you'll have enough to cut a spare rod.
9) After you're done building the acrylic model - especially the black acrylic. You'll notice it has finger prints all over it. Black acrylic shows finger prints like nobodies business. Don't use household cleaner on the acrylic it'll cause crazing of the acrylic over time. Personally I use a pump spray cleaner that is safe for plastic lenses.
Other than the apparent common issue of the X and Y axis not lining up to the 200x200 bed lines at 0. As stated I'm really happy with my 3D printer.
In building it I came up with several mods, design changes, corrections to issues (like the X/Y axis zero position) which I plan on implementing in the very near future.
As well as a couple upgrades - like the All metal carrier upgrade which comes stock on the new 2016 i3 Pro B.
Dang if I had only waited a week!! lol
For the moment however - at least for a week or two. I'm going to enjoy it as it is.
Learn about the software and firmware in that time while figuring out what to print next...
Thanx Geeetech! I'm really enjoying my 3D printer!
- chase -
