I would like to know if uploading through Slir3 config file changes the setting for E stepper. In Merlin if I upload to the firmware it will boot from those settings and not the settings from the computer on start up. When I first start to print the hot end started at .35 mm but since I had hot end problems I think i must have changed something in the process in the firmware of the printer? Now that my hot end works it has started printing approximately 5MM above the table but the display says .35mm ??? I tried severl things including making sure home adjustments were correct and thickness was as a sheet of paper. No help; Since I know it started correctly by the settings you supply I went back over all of them including the SlicR3 settings. They are all correct.
I tried a Pronterface software to drive the printer since i use it on another 3d printer i built and got the same 5mm results. The extrusion is working well if it were on the table. So, that leads me back to the firmware settings in the display. Your website does not speak of the settings that i'm looking for. I also reformatted the SD card thinking maybe it was stored there, didn't help. It has to be in the display.
I just need to know the process of booting from the computer vs booting stand alone and how the display works in each. Even booting from the stand alone printer and printing does the same thing.
Thanks,
Rick
How setting in firmware work
How setting in firmware work
Last edited by Rick12 on Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: How setting in firmware work
Hi,Rick
What model is your printer?
I guess you mean the nozzle is too far from the bed when printing,but you actually levelled the bed before,am i right?
If so,you can reflash the latest firmware first.
Then try moving up Z axis to 20-30mm then start your print to see if there is a difference.
What model is your printer?
I guess you mean the nozzle is too far from the bed when printing,but you actually levelled the bed before,am i right?
If so,you can reflash the latest firmware first.
Then try moving up Z axis to 20-30mm then start your print to see if there is a difference.
-Keep your mind and try to test it. 
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
Re: How setting in firmware work
William,
Thanks for the reply. I did find my problem yesterday. It turns out that the right stepper motor was lagging. I had lost my setup for that reason. I knew that had been correct but lost it's position. I set the voltage to 1v and readjusted X alignment and now that works fine.
Even though my adjustments are correct and bed temp is 65 it still don't stick, had to use tape.
Does your plastic stick or do you use something else.
Thanks,
Rick
Ps what do you have your flow and feedrate set to? Mine is flow 100 and feed is 125. Also, had to set temp to 230 deg for it to flow good.
Thanks for the reply. I did find my problem yesterday. It turns out that the right stepper motor was lagging. I had lost my setup for that reason. I knew that had been correct but lost it's position. I set the voltage to 1v and readjusted X alignment and now that works fine.
Even though my adjustments are correct and bed temp is 65 it still don't stick, had to use tape.
Does your plastic stick or do you use something else.
Thanks,
Rick
Ps what do you have your flow and feedrate set to? Mine is flow 100 and feed is 125. Also, had to set temp to 230 deg for it to flow good.
Re: How setting in firmware work
Rick,
1.Actually,to make it stick better i use blue adhesive tape too.
2.The flow i set to is 100 and the feed rate depends on how the print performs.
1.Actually,to make it stick better i use blue adhesive tape too.
2.The flow i set to is 100 and the feed rate depends on how the print performs.
-Keep your mind and try to test it.
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
Re: How setting in firmware work
Sounds write but on my other single hotend once I set the flow and feedrate I never had to change them. However, this is a new monster to tame!
Thanks,
Rick
Thanks,
Rick
Re: How setting in firmware work
Sounds write but on my other single hotend once I set the flow and feedrate I never had to change them. However, this is a new monster to tame!
Thanks,
Rick
Thanks,
Rick
Re: How setting in firmware work
William,
The reason I had ask was because my x and y parameters were with in afew hundreds, but my z axis was 19.76 for a 20x20x20 cube. So, I think it could be flowrate. Any way I'm up to 125 and I got areal nice bearing cover(208zz). It does take some playing around with. I thought this table was the best out and didn't need anything to help stick? Well...
Rick
The reason I had ask was because my x and y parameters were with in afew hundreds, but my z axis was 19.76 for a 20x20x20 cube. So, I think it could be flowrate. Any way I'm up to 125 and I got areal nice bearing cover(208zz). It does take some playing around with. I thought this table was the best out and didn't need anything to help stick? Well...
Rick
Re: How setting in firmware work
William,
Thanks, for the reply. I've been so busy it's been hard to keep up. I found the problem and fixed it turns out the left stepper was missing steps! The reason it was hard to find was I thought the settins were correct and they were until this happened.
So, I left that , cause it was ok, until nothing else made sense.
I have an M201and have made some discoveries about the head and now I no longer have ANY filament jams. I wrote Bruce the whole proceedure on how to stop the jam problem.
I still don't have a good constant print yet . I can make a bearing cover and it turns out great, but tried to make something I created with tinkercad and it turned out badly. Under fed filament caused honeycomb of the complete project?..
As someone else has said it's (THE hot END) very touchy? Why? Once it's setup correctly it should work. This is the second one I've built, the first being a single head I built and designed using Merlin software which is great and constant.!! I believe there is still a problem with ver 1.0.5, but I'll not talk about it yet. I shared it with Bruce so he can check it out first. Incase it's just my machine.
Thanks,
Rick
Ps if you don't mind please tell me your settings in slic3r or cura as I'd like to compare them with mine.
Thanks, for the reply. I've been so busy it's been hard to keep up. I found the problem and fixed it turns out the left stepper was missing steps! The reason it was hard to find was I thought the settins were correct and they were until this happened.
So, I left that , cause it was ok, until nothing else made sense. I have an M201and have made some discoveries about the head and now I no longer have ANY filament jams. I wrote Bruce the whole proceedure on how to stop the jam problem.
I still don't have a good constant print yet . I can make a bearing cover and it turns out great, but tried to make something I created with tinkercad and it turned out badly. Under fed filament caused honeycomb of the complete project?..
As someone else has said it's (THE hot END) very touchy? Why? Once it's setup correctly it should work. This is the second one I've built, the first being a single head I built and designed using Merlin software which is great and constant.!! I believe there is still a problem with ver 1.0.5, but I'll not talk about it yet. I shared it with Bruce so he can check it out first. Incase it's just my machine.
Thanks,
Rick
Ps if you don't mind please tell me your settings in slic3r or cura as I'd like to compare them with mine.