Prusa i3 acrylic extruder problem

[zhangxueyou]

It seemed that i had a handful of issues that are now mostly solved. I got a caliper that measures to .01mm and turned out my filament was closer to 1.81mm (vs the 1.68mm default in slic3r). I think the default manual feed speed in repetier was too high for the nozzle size (0.3mm) so it was skipping. I was also having some issues with my filament coming off the spool and therefore not feeding properly. I mounted the spool next to the lcd on the top rail and that has seemed to help as well.

I will say that after a few hours the extruder support piece is sagging like others have complained about. I had to run a zip tie from the extruder feed screw to the carriage bracket in order to stabilize the extruder enough to print a replacement.

Is there a solution to the sagging extruder support? Updated design? Print out of ABS instead of PLA?

ABS is better. Can you take a picture of your extruder support?

[hamboner]

It was starting to look like this: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 14&t=16107

One thing i noticed is that the i3b STL files i have and my printer both came with the carriage support that is flat across the front, but the pictures i see on you website show a rounded notch on the bottom of the front side of the carriage, like in this picture: http://www.geeetech.com/images/s/Geeete ... hi3pro.jpg

Is there a new carriage design that would help? I re-printed in PLA, but will switch over and see if i can get a good print in ABS.

[zhangxueyou]

It was starting to look like this: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 14&t=16107

One thing i noticed is that the i3b STL files i have and my printer both came with the carriage support that is flat across the front, but the pictures i see on you website show a rounded notch on the bottom of the front side of the carriage, like in this picture: http://www.geeetech.com/images/s/Geeete ... hi3pro.jpg

Is there a new carriage design that would help? I re-printed in PLA, but will switch over and see if i can get a good print in ABS.

Yes, we re-design it for a firmer assembly.

[k3tzor]

Check your private message or email.

I've also have the same problem..

Checked the jumpers, filament can get pushed trough, but the extruder motor just clicks .. Sometimes it works, but never can finish a print ....

[hamboner]

Could you please email me the updated STL files?

Thanks!

david.hammack@gmail.com

[zhangxueyou]

Check your private message or email.

I've also have the same problem..

Checked the jumpers, filament can get pushed trough, but the extruder motor just clicks .. Sometimes it works, but never can finish a print ....

What is the distance between nozzle and hotbed?

[acmaker]

I had a similar issue. Firstly take off your fan and heat sink, check that the filament is threaded into the extruder hole below the gear, sometimes it can bend the wrong way and miss the hole.

Clean your extruder gear with a cotton bud and some acetone while you are there.

Then replace the heat sink and fan. Heat the nozzle to 200, press down on the filament release and with a pair of pliers grip the filament above the extruder and force it down. U might see burnt filament come out keep pushing through until it runs clear without building on the nozzle.

On repeter extrude without pushing the filament manually. If it's sill clicking adjust your e steps. I'll check my setting tonight for you but u think 800 is too high.

[k3tzor]

I had a similar issue. Firstly take off your fan and heat sink, check that the filament is threaded into the extruder hole below the gear, sometimes it can bend the wrong way and miss the hole.

Clean your extruder gear with a cotton bud and some acetone while you are there.

Then replace the heat sink and fan. Heat the nozzle to 200, press down on the filament release and with a pair of pliers grip the filament above the extruder and force it down. U might see burnt filament come out keep pushing through until it runs clear without building on the nozzle.

On repeter extrude without pushing the filament manually. If it's sill clicking adjust your e steps. I'll check my setting tonight for you but u think 800 is too high.

On mine, i3 the e-step is 95. I've gotten the firmware from this forum

[hugues]

Hello.
I have the same problem with my extruder.
It worked a little, just enough time to print a first calibration piece and when I tried to print a 20x20 mm solid cube It has stopped functioning after 2 mm in height.
the extruder motor vibrates...
If I push the filament (by hand), it goes easy and the melted abs correctly exits the nozzle at the right diameter (0.4).
So, I guess my nozzle is clean.

Then I measured the voltage on all stepsticks (between the potentiometer and the ground):
I found 0.8V for x, y
I found 1.1V for z (I've set like that for z works properly).
and for E axis, I found 0V ...
I inverted the pollolu axis E with the one of the y-axis, the y-axis no longer moves, the motor vibrate...

So I think I have a dead pollolu.
Is this component fragile?
Have I made a mistake that broke it?

[zhangxueyou]

Hello.
I have the same problem with my extruder.
It worked a little, just enough time to print a first calibration piece and when I tried to print a 20x20 mm solid cube It has stopped functioning after 2 mm in height.
the extruder motor vibrates...
If I push the filament (by hand), it goes easy and the melted abs correctly exits the nozzle at the right diameter (0.4).
So, I guess my nozzle is clean.

Then I measured the voltage on all stepsticks (between the potentiometer and the ground):
I found 0.8V for x, y
I found 1.1V for z (I've set like that for z works properly).
and for E axis, I found 0V ...
I inverted the pollolu axis E with the one of the y-axis, the y-axis no longer moves, the motor vibrate...

So I think I have a dead pollolu.
Is this component fragile?
Have I made a mistake that broke it?

Did you stick the heat sink to A4988(Perhaps you call it pollolu) .?