Hot end not hot enough

[matelich]

On my G2S, I can't get extruder 1 to go above 190 degrees. Extruder 2 does.

Ideas?

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Right as I was about to hit send, I noticed that my hot end was at an angle. I suspect my thermostat stopped working, but the heating didn't and it melted right out.

This was my first print attempt (once I got the extruder working). Can I get a replacement?

In the mean time, how hard is it to print on extruder 2 by default, so I don't have to take everything apart?

[Mark]

You can contact the seller to replace the hotend. And what's the output of your PSU, is it 20A? seems it lacks power to get the temperature to above 190 degrees.
" how hard is it to print on extruder 2 by default"
you can choose the extruder you want to use in the slic3r.

QQ截图20151109155737.jpg (210.92 KiB) Viewed 15076 times

[matelich]

Thank you. I will check the output, but extruder 2 easily got to 205, and given the melting, I think extruder 1 went well above

[kbp]

Hello. My hot end will not go heat up more than 143 degrees. I suspect the PSU is failing to deliver the amps needed. Hot end LED on motherboard is lit and the temperature does rise but will not go higher than 143. Also: heat bed will not maintain a constant of 95. Hot bed temperature will oscillate between 93 and 97 degrees and I am getting an erratic behavior on the LCD- the characters suddenly turn into gibberish nonsense.

[Mark]

what's your printer type? and you can check the heater and hotbed resistance first. check this link here:
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 039#p27615
Also check the output of the PSU when heating and not heating, is it always 12V?

[kbp]

Hi Mark. It`s a Geeetech Prusa I3 M201 3D printer.

Cartridge resistance is at 14.7 Ohms yet it is supposed to be about 3.6 Ohms.

Heat Bed resistance is at 3.4 ohms. The article mentions that the resistance of the hotbed ranges from 1-2ohms.

Power supply is 24V, outputs 24,38V when it is "Preset heat for ABS." The board outputs 23.92V to the heater cartridge.

[Mark]

nope, since your printer is M201, then the heatbed and hotend resistance is correct, theoretically it should be 14.4ohms and 3.6ohms. And the board power is 24V too.
I think the bed is normal, it will dissipate quickly, if you use ABS then try to use some glue on the bed, it will make the filament easy to stick to the bed.
But the wierd thing is your hotend, I think you can try only heat up it, leave the bed along, see if it will go up above 150 degrees, but note that sometimes my thermistor is not in the proper position and it will give me a much more small reading, try to check it too.

[kbp]

I tried only heating up the hot end by it self. Same results.
I re adjusted the thermo resistor. Same results.
I changed the thermo resistor with a Semitec 104GT2 (Beta value 4267K.) Same results but I have not reconfigured the firmware as I don't know how to do it on the STM32 / GTM32 control system.

Maybe the thermoresistor settings are wrong.

[Mark]

Does the LED under the hotend connector keep on all the time when heating?
And if you connect the heating cartridge to the PSU connector directly, could it reach 200 degrees? Note you should be careful with this cause you need to cut the power in case temperature is too high!

[kbp]

It does not reach the 200 directly connected to the PSU.

I noticed the initial readings for the hot end temperature is also wrong. This is before anything is heated up, it reads 74 while the hot bed reads 16. The value does change, so I suspect it may not be a connection problem.